Understanding Wave Dynamics and Tidal Phenomena
RMS Wave Height: It is the one that best represents the energy of a sea state. Wave Height Average: The average of the simple wave height. On Wave Height: H / d. Significant Wave Height: Average third of waves a record high wave. Wave Height: Vertical distance between a crest and a trough. Amplitude: Maximum deviation from the mean level in a regular wave; the amplitude is half the wave height. Asomeramiento: Process by which the wave steepens due to the action of the seabed until the peaks are destabilized. Tidal: Vertical distance between high tide and the next low tide. Equinoctial: Times of maximum speed with haste = k; the wave propagates c = L / T. Rating Wave Zone: d / L > 0.5 indefinite circular; 0.05 < d / L < 0.05 intermediate elliptical. Marea: Small arrows. Coefficient: A number that indicates the relative value of the tide for each day of the year. Collapsing: The crest is never broken, while its front steepens and collapses, producing harmonics: foam. Components of the Tidal Wave: Waves sine or cosine (harmonic) n in which the tidal wave breaks, according to Fourier’s theorem. Flow Waves: The wave of wind, yes, only when it breaks. Square: Relative position of the sun and the moon relative to Earth, in alignments of 90º. Inequality Day: Difference between two maximum or minimum successive tidal events. Diffraction or Lateral Expansion: The phenomenon whereby there is a transfer of power when a wave front encounters an obstacle, natural or artificial, which exceeds Kd = H / Ho. Scattering of Waves: Determined by the dispersion equation which relates the speed with depth and wavelength. Equation of Continuity: It assumes that the difference between two profiles of solid transport is used in forward or reverse shoreline between them, so no solid material is lost. Age of the Tide: The gap between the passage of the full moon over the meridian of the place and the maximum monthly plamar following. Energy Spectrum: A representation of the energy of a wave in terms of its Directional Spectrum: Frequency bands; representation of the energy of a wave in terms of its frequency bands but it adds energy and frequency information depending on the direction of propagation of waves. Spectrum Frequency of Waves: Analysis of the wave (the existence of long waves, energy transfer between bands of frequencies, simple characterization of a swell, swell simple parameterization, …). Establishment of the Port: Average time interval between the passage of the moon over the meridian of the place and the moment of the first high tide. Stoa Power: The moment when the current associated with the tide vanishes. Not generally coinciding with the slack tide. Tide Stoa: Time when the level is fixed at high tide or low tide. FETCH: The area of wind wave generation; the distance over which the wind transfers its energy to the waves. Flow: The process of slow and steady rise of sea water due to the progressive increase in lunar and solar attraction. Forms of Breakage: Spilling, plunging, surging, collapsing. Angular Frequency: W = 2π / T. Peak Frequency: Frequency band in which there is the greatest energy density. Frequency Spectrum: Number of crests passing per second through a fixed point = the wave. Generation: Is generated by the friction of air over the sea surface. Wave Group: Group of waves of similar size, produced by the composition of wave trains of different frequencies. Jeffrey Hypothesis: Wave generation model, not applicable to the formation of small waves. JonsWAP: Theoretical spectrum of wave energy, which applies in areas that have a limited FETCH. Cotidal Lines: Connecting points where the tide is simultaneous. Wavelength: Horizontal distance between two successive peaks. High Tide: State of sea water reaches its highest point in the cycle of tides. Astronomical Tide: Periodic motion of the sea level caused by the gravitational forces exerted mainly by the Sun and the Moon. Low Tide: Moment opposed to high tide when it reaches its lowest altitude. Weather Tide: One that includes level changes in coastal areas as a result of pressure variations and wind. Quadrature Neap Tide: Tides that occur during the phases of waxing and waning. Neap Tide: The tide that occurs shortly after the waning moon or crescent. The fact that there are active or inactive tides results in a fortnightly inequality in the heights of tides and currents. Syzygy Spring Tide: Those produced with the full moon and new moon when the Sun, Moon, and Earth are aligned: the tide is going after new or full moon. Tides: A wave generated mainly by the gravitational attraction of the Sun and Moon. Boussinesq Model: Model description of frequency wave. Jeffrey Model: A model that explains wave generation by wind, through the pressure differences caused by the effect of the embargo imposed by. Moment Spectral Peaks: The total energy of the wave record, since this is the area spectrum enclosed. Baseline: Baseline adopted locally in each region or locality by which you measure the height of the tide. Tidal Level: Mean sea level at the point of reference, when the average is performed over a period of time. Wave Number: k = 2π / L. Test: Wave propagates from undefined depths to the coast: The period remains approximately constant, the wave height increases, the wave. Wind Surf: Asomera: Do not move the masses, except in fracture processes, which is a disturbance that propagates. Long Waves: Known as those whose period is greater than that of wind waves T > 30s. Physical Parameter: In the generation of wind: Cannot pressure gradient: The relationship between wave height and the wavelength. Return: Indicates the average number of years between two occurrences of a temporary or wave height determined. Period: Time it takes to pass two successive peaks at the same point. Pierson-Moskowitz: Single-parameter spectrum, created for fully developed waves. Plunging: The crest of the wave turns on itself and collapses to its foot. The slope of the relatively steep beaches. Peralte: E = H / L. Tidal Prism: Volume of water moving into or out of a bay or another site during each tidal cycle. Relative Depth: d / L. Depth: Distance between MSL and the bottom. Point Amphidromic: Those which revolve around the tidal wave in a system amphidromic. In them, the tidal range is very close to zero. Reflection of Waves: Sharp change in direction, with or without energy loss experienced by the waves after hitting an obstacle. Reflux: The process of decline in marine waters, slow and progressive due to the decline of lunar and solar attraction. Refraction: Giro experienced by the wave fronts due to the reduction of speed as they reach depths, produced by the reduction of speed. Extremal Regimen: Distribution of extremes of a variable in sea waves is used to. System Medium Wave: A set of states most likely wave may occur. HANGOVERS in the Harbor: Events produced when the excitation frequency of the waves matches the frequency of oscillation of the basin; its origin can be induced by weather or incident waves. Break: The process of wave energy dissipation that produces a strong gradient tensor radiation, causing the appearance of current. SEA, Sea Wind: Occurs in the area generation, also called FETCH. It is a very messy wave. Seiches: Ports produced in bays and coastal lagoons or entering an external shock wave, coming into resonance with the Half-Period Tidal: Bay: The difference in time between high and low tide. Wind Set-up: Level superelevation produced by the friction of wind on the sea surface. Spilling: The tide is low and unusable; the wavefront has a foamy appearance. It takes place in gently sloping beaches. Storm Surges: These are sea level rises associated with a low-pressure system. Surging: It occurs on very steep beaches; the wave moves without actually breaking. The wave front moves toward the ridge, producing reflection. SWELL: Swell: It happens outside the area of generation with different T wave, traveling in the same direction with higher order. Radiation Tension: The tension only due to the passage of a wave, discounting other factors such as hydrostatic pressure produced by increased flows where gradients are highest. Fourier Theorem in Maritime Engineering: To decompose an irregular wave into a sum of regular waves sine or cosine. Frequency of peak spectral moments, pointing coefficient, and coefficient of symmetry. Airy Theory: Linear Wave Theory. Test: When the wavelength decreases, the wave group no. Test: When the lines orthogonal to the fronts of wave energy are concentrated. Test: As the wave approaches the coast on a sloping bottom, c increases. Test: When the waves are coming, no. Land Without Continents: Like a wave that would revolve around the planet with a period similar to the rotation of the Moon around the Earth. Unit Height: Average over 19 years (nodal cycle) of the two highest tide races (Equinox) for each year of the cycle. Acting Agents: Erosion of the dunes and cliffs, artificial feeding of beaches, river networks, dune and backbeach storage, wind, golas and coastal lagoons, extractions, offshore slope, submarine canyons, dragados, limestone. Piers Fields: Accumulation of sand to produce barlomar and erosions to sotamar. Coast: Part of a continent or island adjacent to the sea, in the volatile landscape in two-dimensional profile and wane increase the sediment also. Deltas: Erosion are types of deposits produced in the mouths of rivers, with low slope and low flow rate. Circumlittoral Floor: Also called sublittoral floor, current scientific name for the part of the ground. Floor Infralitoral: Never emerge during spring tides. Floor Mediolittoral: Normal tidal zone, where there is alternation of immersion and emersion. Supralittoral Floor: Or spray area, an area above the average of the high seas living, which is easily scattered by the foam. Erosion Coast: Alteration of the mechanisms and elements that protect the sedimentary environment under natural conditions. Espigón Without Transportation: To determine the equilibrium orientation of the coast, namely the one in which the solid transport potential is zero net longitudinal. Estran: The part of the coast lying between the known levels of high and low tides. Spit in Mouth: Formed at the expense of solid material which provides a river, coupled with current-driven transport in the longitudinal direction. Litoral Arrow: Type of deposit formed by a sudden change in alignment of the coast. Jetties: Types of deposits produced in the mouths of rivers, forming arrows. Coast Line: A line in the Earth’s surface that defines the boundary between sea and land. Hydrodynamic Framework: An area where coastal processes verify. Millennium: Coastal beach processes: coastal protection, tourist and ecosystem-based. Profile of Accretion: It can be interpreted as the recovery of the profile mainly due to the asymmetry of the waves. It acts on the submerged deposits and leads to the shoreline making progress, and increasing the slope of the Storm Profile: Formed by impacting very high energy waves, which causes erosion of the emerged part material, and transports toward the black. Due to the erosion of the berm and bar formation, there is a change of the slope, making it more stretched, causing at the same time, an online receding shore. Playa Supported: Type of deposit formed by a reverse change of address the spit, which stops the carriage wholly or partly supported forming a beach. Barrier Beach: Works like a spit, but in the opposite direction of the transport stream. Playa Embedded Solid: Modeled by diffraction caused by headlands that line the creek. Potential for Solid: One that is calculated by empirical means but not 100% correct. Depth of Closure: That from which there are no significant changes in the cross-section. Promontorios: Similar to cause effects jetties and can be produced by superelevation gradient toward the promontory sotamar area. Rip-Currents: Specific transversal transport of sediments in which are arranged in a flow cell systems and are listed in the existence of longitudinal currents that tend to converge. Hemitómbolo Tómbolo: The diffractions produced by the end of a breakwater or another obstacle locally induce currents due to transport solid superelevation gradient wave height. Transport Gross: Means the sum of the absolute value of solid transport produced by each wave over time. Transport Net: The algebraic sum of all individual transport. Transport: Process by which beach material is transported along the coast and across to her by wave action, systems and solid transport media extremal profile cause movements.